24 Hours in Delhi
Delhi was an absolute world wind of colors, smells, tastes and sounds. It truly heightened every sense I had and surely gave me a run for my money. When I was planning my epic 2 week adventure to India, I was not really interested in spending much time in Delhi. My research showed me it wasn’t very safe for solo female travelers, most people got sick (read all my experience with Delhi belly and how to avoid it here) and truthfully, I wasn’t super excited by any of the sites I was reading about. It seemed like avoiding Delhi at all costs wasn’t possible since Delhi was the most convenient airport, but I was able to limit my time to just about 24 hours. My flight arrived at 5:15am and the next day I would fly to Jodhpur at 10:00am.
Getting through customs was really easy for me (I had my eVisa ahead of time) and my bags arrived shortly after. I chose to use a private driver to navigate the city (If you are interested in doing the same, I LOVED my experience with Discover India By Car). My driver, Satya, was waiting for me at the airport and took me to my first stop: my hotel. Your girl needed to shower.
I stayed at Prakash Kutir. It was located in a quiet neighborhood, and for all my solo female travelers, I felt pretty safe here. I say pretty safe mostly because I was nervous and anxious about being alone in India, so I’m not sure if my uneasiness came from first day jitters or the fact that my room had two doors and I only had one safety alarm. But honestly, it was safe, clean and the staff we very kind.
I had A LOT on my agenda, as I wanted to make the most of my short time here. Let me just say now, plans are just ideas in India. We didn’t do everything I wanted to, but I definitely think my day was very productive.
First thing first - a Chai Making Class in JD’s home. It was pretty nervewracking arriving in India alone and then heading straight into someone’s home. But honestly, it was awesome! JD and his family were so welcoming and we made some of the best chai I had my whole trip. It was really fun to learn more about the infamous Indian Chai - and it was even more fun to try and make it. They also served breakfast and I was obsessed with the dish they made me. I hadn’t originally planned to take this class. My OG plan was to check out the Red Fort, then take this food tour. But when my food tour host reached out and asked if I wanted to come to his house first to have a Chai Making Class, I couldn’t say no!
The Street Food Tour was the thing that I was the MOST excited about in Delhi and it definitely lived up to its hype. This food tour was SO MUCH MORE than just a food tour. We visited a Jain temple, a Sikh Gurdwara (where they serve food to over 15,000 people a day for free), Asia’s largest spice market, the 2nd largest mosque and ate some incredible food. We wandered through the insane alleyways of Chandni Chowk Bazaar and sneezed our way through the Spice Market. The Gurwara was my favorite part. Think soup kitchen, but not just for the poor. People from all different backgrounds, class and status come to eat and pray here together. We even got to participate in making bread that would be served!
After my food tour, I really wanted to go inside the Red Fort, but my driver told me we wouldn’t have enough time, so I just admired it from the outside as we drove to our next spot: Humayun's Tomb. This place was so calm, peaceful and beautiful. It was such a juxtaposition next to the chaotic and wild streets of Delhi. I spent about an hour here wandering and exploring. I had a few more major things I wanted to see, so after I covered the grounds, I found my driver and we headed to our next spot, The Lotus Temple. If you’re going to skip anything, this is it. It was so crowded and the guards were shouting and yelling at everyone in Hindi. I had no idea what was going on, so I just left. I asked my driver for a recommendation on where we should go next and he recommended Lodhi Gardens.
He knew my vibe. Lodhi Gardens were beautiful and we went on a relaxing hour long stroll through the gardens and around the lakes. Delhi is a really green city, which is something I definitely didn’t expect. This was just one of the many gardens and it was so fun to watch the locals picnic, go for walks and just live their day-to-day.
After the gardens, most major sites were closed, so I decided it was probably time to eat again, right? I read about Indian Accent in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and they have never disappointed me yet. I was so lucky to be able to squeeze in to their last open table of the night! I got their tasting menu and while the food was incredible, I’m pretty sure this is where Delhi took a turn for the worst for me. Around 3am I started projectile vomiting and somehow managed to get Delhi Belly on my first day in India. When I look back and try to figure out exactly what it was that made me sick, most people think it was the street food tour. But I really don’t think that was it! I’m fairly confident it was either the chicken meatball or the water from the 5-star restuarant that night.
Either way, 10/10 don’t recommend getting Delhi belly before your flight! Luckily the airport and flight staff were all incredibly kind to me. They let me cut the security lines, cleared out the back row of the plane for me and constantly checked in on my wellbeing. So. Stinking. Nice.
Delhi Essentials
Where I Stayed
Prakash Kutir | A simple, clean hotel in a quiet and residential neighborhood.
Where To Eat
Street Food Tour | When in delhi, you HAVE to try the street food - but please make sure to go with a trusted tour so that you don’t get sick!
Indian Accent | On The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. I had their tasting menu and it was truly fantastic.
Bukhara| Also on the 50 Best Restaurant list, I didn’t make it this time but its definitely on my radar for my next trip to India.
Karim’s | An absolute favorite by locals and travelers - this is a must visit.
What To Do
Red Fort | Similar to the Agra Fort, but much larger. A huge complex filled with ornate architecture, and captivating tales of Mughal history.
Humayun's Tomb | a peaceful mausoleum surrounded by lush gardens
Lotus Temple | a beautiful piece of architecture, but it was chaotic and not somewhere I enjoyed visiting.
Lodhi Gardens | another escape from the hectic Delhi, these gardens were filled with ancient ruins, lots of locals and a peacock or two!
Jama Masjid| Delhi's largest mosque, boasting stunning architecture
Akshardham Temple| A Hindu house of worship, this is a huge complex with some incredible architecture
Chandni Chowk: An absolutely chaotic market that everyone MUST see while in Delhi
My Top Tips/Thoughts For an Awesome Time In Delhi
Delhi is huge and very crowded. Do not plan to do too much in one day!
Delhi is the only place where I feel like I was stared at as a women. Its the place I felt like I needed to cover up the most.
Delhi is the only place I got sick. Be really careful where you eat and do NOT drink the tap water!
I wish I had more time to shop around Chandi Chowk. There was so much going on and see/do!
Lotus Temple did not feel worth my time. I wouldn’t recommend it.
Depending on the experience you are looking for, staying in New Delhi is quieter and more modern. Old Delhi is chaos, lots of crazy wires hanging everywhere and is very noisey, but closer to everything and more “authentic”
Traveling to India as a Solo Female Travel
When I decided to travel to India solo, safety was a big worry for me. My family, friends, and community couldn't quite wrap their heads around why I'd go alone. But despite the nerves, I was determined to have a great trip while staying safe. So, I took some steps to ease my worries, help me feel more secure and allow me to relax and enjoy my adventure without constantly worrying.
I hired a private driver. I used Discover India by Car and I couldn’t recommend them enough.
I booked trusted AirBnb tours. Scams are REAL in India and I didn’t want to be subject to a guide that was trying to get more money from me, or take me to places that I didn’t want to go to.
I stayed in well-known and well reviewed hotels. I stayed at Prakash Kutir and felt incredibly safe! I loved it here.
I purchased a personal safety alarm. While I didn’t ever need it, it definitely gave me comfort when I was walking solo.
I traveled with a doorstop alarm. Since I was sleeping alone in hotel rooms, it was a comfort to know that if someone was trying to enter my room, I would know immediately!
I traveled with travel insurance. This gave me comfort to know that if I got sick, I would be able to see a doctor and not face a huge financial burden. (Speaking of getting sick, check out my guide to avoiding delhi belly here)
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